MY CHINATOWN: A VISIT TO SAN FRANCISCO CHINATOWN WITH MARTIN YAN
On this Saturday morning, San Francisco’s Chinatown is already in full swing by brunch. At Portsmouth Square, elders gather for tai chi while others sip tea and play games. Just a few blocks over, shopkeepers are setting up, locals are running errands, and produce stalls are already buzzing. The streets are busy, but there’s a rhythm and vibrancy to it all.
That’s where we met up with Martin Yan—sharp, quick-witted, and totally in his element.
We were there to see Chinatown through Martin’s lens—as part of a walking tour organized by the Chinatown Visitor Information Center to help draw more visitors back into the neighborhood. Tourism plays a real role here, and the goal was simple: get more people to come, eat, and spend time in Chinatown.
The tour kicked off at Portsmouth Square, just steps from the Hilton San Francisco Financial District—a hotel right at the edge of Chinatown and an easy launch point into the neighborhood.
Cruising through Chinatown with Martin is like tagging along with the mayor. Shopkeepers step out to say hello, passersby pause to chat, and someone even hands him a bottle of soy milk just for stopping by.
Martin Yan is a well-known local culinary figure. Before cooking shows went mainstream, he was on public television with a cleaver, a wok, and a catchphrase: “If Yan can cook, so can you.” He had charisma, sharp skills, and a natural ease in front of the camera—long before the Food Network or Top Chef.
On this particular morning, he’s cracking jokes with vendors, pointing out spots that have been around for decades, and giving context you wouldn’t get just walking around on your own.
The first few stops were grocery and produce shops—packed spaces with handwritten signs, and more types of greens than most people could name. Martin would pause to point things out: bitter melon, Chinese broccoli, and different kinds of roots. He credits eating a lot of vegetables for his health and vitality, casually pointing out a few of his favorites as we walked by.
At one shop, Martin pointed out a box of longan—a small round fruit that literally translates to “dragon’s eye.” We tried it. The texture was like lychee, but the flavor was milder and more floral. A sweet stop to cleanse the palate before trying a savory bite you’ll only find in Chinatown.
Just a few doors down, we stopped at Gourmet Delight BBQ—the kind of place you smell before you see. Whole ducks hang in the window, skin shiny and golden from the rotisserie. Inside, the scent of five-spice, roasted pork, and something slightly smoky hits you right away.
Martin led us in and ordered a sample of the crispy roast pork. They chopped it fresh on the block—juicy, salty, and perfectly crisp on top. It’s a Chinatown staple for a reason—respect to the craft.
Across the street, we headed to Chung Chou City Market, a shop specializing in dried goods. Shelves were lined with products like ginseng, bird’s nest, dried abalone, and sea cucumber. These aren’t everyday ingredients—they’re used sparingly and hold deep cultural significance, with preparation methods passed down through generations.
Martin pointed out a few key items—like bird’s nest and sea cucumber—and gave quick context on how they’re used. It was an intro to deep cultural roots that we otherwise wouldn't have had insight into.
From there, we made our way to Chinatown Restaurant, one of the oldest in the neighborhood. A faded “Grand Opening” banner still hung above the door—Martin joked it might’ve been the original from 1919.
We headed upstairs, where a wraparound balcony held a handful of outdoor tables. The place was bustling. Staff moved quickly. Locals mixed with tourists. The vibe felt like it had been this way for decades.
Our group sat down to a table full of potstickers, spring rolls, noodles, and stir-fried vegetables. No menu browsing, no decision fatigue—just comfort food served family-style, the way it should be.
After lunch, we wrapped the tour with a tasting at Vital Tea Leaf. The walls were lined with jars, and a long counter ran through the room for seated tastings.
Ming, the owner, poured the first round and walked us through how to brew and re-steep properly. He was laid back and funny—at one point admitting he preferred whiskey over tea.
Two standouts: Blue People Ginseng, known for its kick (and hangover help), and Green Goddess, a floral blend that hit just right after a full afternoon in Chinatown.
We tasted, listened and learned, walked, and walked some more. And by the end of it, we didn’t just leave full—we left with a better understanding of the flavors, cultural roots, and everyday rhythms that make this neighborhood what it is.
In a city that’s always changing, Chinatown stays rooted. It’s built on tradition, shaped by generations, and still doing what it’s always done—serving the people who live here, and welcoming the ones who show up with curiosity.
If you’re not a local, the Hilton San Francisco Financial District is a convenient place to stay—right next to Chinatown and close enough to experience it all on foot.
If Martin Yan can show up for the city, so can you.
FRESH LOCAL VIBES is a curated mix of local finds, places to stay well, and things that draw you in. We follow feel over formula, letting intuition guide what we share. Our goal is to inspire moments that feel good and feed the soul. Explore more in Culture—curated edits, places to stay well, and a feel for local flavor.
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744 WASHINTON STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94108
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1230 STOCKTON STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94133
https://chungchoucity.com/en -
1045 STOCKTON STRET, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94108
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1044 GRANT AVE, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94133
https://vitaltealeaf.net/ -
Clay Street and Kearny Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
https://sfrecpark.org/893/Portsmouth-Square -
750 Kearny Street, San Francisco, California, 94108
https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/sfofdhf-hilton-san-francisco-financial-district/
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